ALASKAN ALPINISM

*Eamonn on the crux pitch of "Once Were Warrior's", Westman-Walsh put up on the Northeast face of Mt. Grosvenor in 2005.
~Photo Mark Westman


Expedition Location: Ruth Gorge, Central Alaska Range, Alaska USA
Date of Expedition: April 25 through May 26
Expedition Climbers: Mark Allen, Ben Kurdt, Phillip Wheelock

Contact: IMGalpinistgrant@gmail.com ;
PO BOX 1004 Winthrop WA 98862;
Tell: 360-305-2383


*North Buttress of the Rooster Comb, a stellar line on an awesome peak not far away. In 2004, Westmna- Aylward atttempt

THE PROJECT
The Ruth Gorge in the Central Alaska Range has been in the center of alpinist activity in North America. It is this venue we seek mixed alpine objectives while establishing new routes on major peaks.


*The West Face of the Mosses Tooth in the Ruth Gorge Alaska Range

We are dedicating five weeks during prime Alpine season to accomplish our target objectives climb three main goals: Peak 11,300, Mooses Tooth (10,335ft), and Mount Dan Beard (10,260ft). All of these peaks yield steep alpine ice and mixed climbs of classic nature of Alaska Grade V AI 3-5 M3-5. We will approach each climb with fast and light single-push alpine style. Our primary objective is establishing a new route on Dan Beard. This massive granite. This prize is highly neglected with only one attempt at AI 5 M4 without success due to time, conditions, and weather.
*Mark Allen Climbing in Ouray CO~Photo Finnwild.com

* Climbers approach the Mosses Tooth via the Ruth Amphitheater
Our strategy is to team up in Ouray, CO for February 09’ then take our systems back to Washington into the North Cascades. This April we will acclimate to the Alaska range on the classic established routes on Mooses Tooth Shaken Not Stirred grade V AI 5 and Peak 11,300 South West Ridge grade V AI3 M4 before going after our big line on Dan Beard. We wish to have your support in helping us achieve these goals.



OUR SPONSORS
BLACK DIAMOND and MAXIM are our two main sponsors for this climb. They are providing us will the gear that we will be using duirng our ascents. Without there support our climbing would not be possible. Please go to OUR SPONSORS bellow to be linked to their products.


UPCOMING SLIDE SHOW VENUE LOCATION
*Mountaineers Seattle Seattle, WA
*Feathered Friends Seattle, WA
*Fall Mountain Festival Mazama, WA
*Western Washington University Bellingham, WA
*Alaska Pacific University Anchorage, AK
*Desert Mountain Sports Las Vegas, NV
*Mazamas Portland, OR
*IMG Headcourters Ashford, WA
*Community Theater Ouray CO


CLIMBING TEAM

Ben Kurdt ~ 30 Central Cascades, WA Mountain Guide
Ben cut his teeth in the mountains of New England and Washington State. Now he is a fulltime Lead Guide for International Mountain Guides. His expeditions have taken him to Alaska, Tibet, Nepal, Antarctica, Ecuador, and the Andes. A quiet hard man having many technical ascents on ice and rock through out the US and Canada. Ben’s strengths are geared towards hard technical climbing( putting up the rope), and team promotion.









Mark Allen~30 North Cascades, WA Mountain Guide Mark has many published first ascents in the North Cascades on Rock and Alpine. His climbing Expeditions have taken him to Patagonia Argentina and Chile, Costal and Rockies Canada, Central AK Range Alaska, New Zealand, China, Nepal, and Antarctica. Mark is a fulltime Lead Guide and Director of Expeditions NorthWest L.L.C. based in Washington and is a certified with the AMGA. Mark strengths are dealing with strategies on big alpine routes, ski descents, expedition logistics, and team promotion.





Philippe Wheelock ~ 35 Boulder, CO National Park Service Climbing Ranger
Philippe is a professional climbing ranger on Mt. Rainier. He has been climbing rock, ice, alpine and big wall style for 10 years with first ascents from Colorado to India. He led expeditions to Patagonia, Kyrgyzstan, Peru, and across North America. Philippe excels at the steep scary mixed leads nobody else wants while exploring the limit.